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E36-Chassis BMW M3: Expert tips on buying, modifying and more | Articles

E36-Chassis BMW M3: Expert tips on buying, modifying and more | Articles

[Editor’s Note: This article originally appeared in the February 2014 issue of Grassroots Motorsports.]

James Clay
BimmerWorld
bimmerworld.com

An E36 is the most rock-solid, nontemperamental BMW produced to date, in my opinion. Unlike some older models, the fuel-injection system functions flawlessly and isn’t very subject to deterioration with age or use. The wiring of the car is well laid out and protected with insulation that remains flexible, so electrical gremlins aren’t common. If you are new to this car, you chose a good one!

Like clockwork, we expect the trinity of front control arm bushings, rear trailing arm bushings, and rear shock mounts to fail on these cars, giving a sloppy, disconnected feel on the road. Stock replacement will work here, but most people upgrade to something like a Powerflex bushing with a lifetime warranty on these locations to increase suspension performance and get a more durable, better-engineered part at the same time.

If it isn’t in your service records and you have more than 60,000 miles, the cooling system needs maintenance. Do that now before you throw a fan blade through the radiator or break the radiator neck. That’ll leave you stranded, wishing you had addressed the cooling before the tow bill. 

The stock radiator has plastic end tanks, which are fine for about an eight-year lifespan. Past that time, the plastic becomes brittle and the normal vibrations of driving will snap it off at some point. Likewise, the factory water pump is a failure item, and another lifetime warranty part like the Stewart pump makes an excellent addition. 

If you are planning higher-rpm use, get rid of the engine fan and fan clutch. A fan delete kit will task the auxiliary fan with the needed cooling, and you will eliminate another piece of brittle, failing plastic.

When upgrading, people seem to think power first. There are certainly gains to be made in this department. An aFe intake not only flows better, but is shielded from engine compartment heat so you actually achieve power gains the cheap kits often miss. 

If you have a 1995-or-newer car with traction control and you can live without it, remove that secondary throttle body, put in a smooth-wall BimmerWorld silicone intake boot, and you instantly get 5 to 8 horsepower at the wheels. This is by far the best bang for the buck. 

Suspension is our favorite…

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